Been reading a bunch on other forums about these $40 Raptor kit here: Raptor Brand 35W HID Kit: DDM Tuning - HID Kits, HID Bulbs, DEPO Lighting, BMW and Porsche Performance AccessoriesI figured it was worth a shot to see if they would enhance my aux. lighting. Specifically, my hella 700's.Here's some pics of what I did to fit them and some differences between the two set-ups.

Complete kit:

Pic of the Hella 700's on:

The kit has the red and black wires through the grommet to attach within the housing. I decided to pull it through and attach it outside the housing. I had to pull slowly and carefully in order to not damage the grommet.

With the lens removed from the housing, I removed the metal clip that holds the original H3 bulb. Can't use as the HID H3 bulb has too wide of a base and the clip won't fit.

I placed the HID H3 bulb into the lens. There are two tabs that I bent to hold the bulb in place. Surprisingly, they held pretty well. At least hopefully until, I can figure out another way to keep it in place.

Drilled a hole (not a perfect hole) to feed the new wires through and fit the new grommet.

Now to mount the ballast using zip ties and connect the wires. Connected the red and black wires to the Hella ground and + wire. All the other connections are literally self explanatory and there's no need to explain that. Pass and Driver. side, bundled with additional wiring for other aux. lighting and the Hella wiring.

Here are some pics of the differences. Hella 700 55W vs the Raptor brand 35W HID kit:Hella left, Raptor right:

Both Hella housings retrofitted:

Overall, I think this kit is worth it if you are retrofitting some aux. lighting but, I don't think these should be installed into a factory headlight housing. For that, you'll probably want to spend a little extra for some thing better. I'm pleased with results and would do it again on a different set of aux. lights.

Recent trip out to Hollister Hills SVRA with some Scouts and 1 jeep. The same day there was a Power wagon gathering. Which, made for some good entertainment in the mud pit. I also ended up catching some poison oak on my arm. What a pain in the ass. The sunday after this trip I also caught the flu and was bed ridden the whole week. I'm still recovering. Here's a few pics. The rest are located here: http://picasaweb.google.com/dyogim/HollistHillsSVRA#

Updated pics:

I've had my roof rack set-up from my previous vehicle sitting in a box on my parts shelf for some time. I've been wanting to incorporate it to the tundra but the fit kit is not compatible with the gutters. So, instead, I hard mounted the feet to the roof using the factory tracks.

All I needed to purchase was:
- a pair of 58" thule load bars ($30)
- 8 grade 5 - 2" long 3/8" bolts, 3/8" washers and nuts. 2 bolts would be holding down each foot (~$5).
- 1" x 1" x 3' angled steel (~$5)
- 1/8" x 2" x 3' flat steel (~$5).

With the angled steel, I cut 8 pieces 3" long. These would be used under the roof. These act as the washer and help spread the clamping force. Same with the flat steel. I cut 8 pieces about 1 3/4" long. These would be mounted on top of the feet to also help spread the clamping force along with the washers. Once I drilled all the holes for the metal pieces, I marked and drilled the holes through the factory tracks after removing the rubber lining. This was probably the best option to drill as it was the thickest part of the roof (~1/4" thick). It consist of 4 layers of sheet metal all spot welded together. Once all that was done, I bolted everything together and installed the interior back in.

Before putting in the head liner, I added an extra layer of insulation. I used foiled bubble wrap that is commonly used for water heaters. I had a bunch of it laying around and figured it wouldn't hurt to add it. I also left pieces out of the headliner. Along the driver side and pass. side are pieces of black plastic supports in the shape of a square grid. I left these out in order to access the nuts for the feet if I ever need to in the future. All I would need to do is take the headliner trim on both sides out to gain access. Otherwise, I'd have to remove the headliner, sun shades, overhead console and light, etc.

Next is to build the box frame for the platform. The platform will be about 4' x 4'. For now here are some pics of the feet and load bars.

I would've liked to purchase some led's for rock lights but for what I was looking for, it wasn't in the budget. Took a trip to walmart and bought two pairs (4 lights) for $30 total. Didn't have to do too much wiring other than running the power to the lights and then grounding each one. I used the relay/switch and pratcially all the wiring for my Hella 500's I recently took off. Here's a pic of one of the lights (front right wheel well). I think I might move the ones in the rear somewhere else to get more light out the sides. Or just leave them and get another pair on a separate switch.

And here's how they look when they are on at night.

Finally hardmounted my on board air. This is one of those MV50 compressors that cost about $40. Modified the intake and connected the lines to my fuse box (right behind the OBA). I used one of the mounts for the PS res. mount and drilled through the wheel well to keep the OBA in place.

Also, took the time, to relocated the fuse box to where it's at in the pic and remove some slack from the aux light wires. The fusebox was actually loosely mounted next to the airbox. Needed to replace the main power lines to the battery with 8 ga stranded wire. Unfortunately, the local shop ran out of black 8 ga., so, I figured, white will do.

Another "low budget" project. Here's a drawing of the canvas topper frame. I'll provide more details once the framing get's started. This framing will be a complete bolt-on process. The canvas part will definitely require me to work on some tailoring skills.